A 14th C German Embroidered BagA 14th C German Bag
This is a bag I made for Renart. It's based on a 14th C German bag, and done in the same style as the original bag. The original is in the Victoria and Albert Museum, Dress and Textiles Department, Frame I-9, Accession number 1567-1902. I saw it when I was in the V&A last, but sadly, did not take any pictures. However, I discovered reference to it in 'A Stitch out of Time: 14th and 15th C German Counted Thread Embroidery' The Complete Anachronist, vol 86 (July 1996). The article is by Timothy J. Mitchell, known in the SCA as Master Richard of Waymarc.
Mitchell has examined the bags carefully and figured out how they were done. I used his method to do the basic embroidery, and found it easy and satisfying, as the embroidery went quickly and smoothly.
Once the main piece was embroidered I decided to enlarge the size of the bag by adding a strip of fabric along the top. This seems to be a period technique (see Mitchell 1996:fig 1), although I am not sure of the relative size of the strip vis a vis the embroidered section. I know I have see this done on later period bags (references to follow when I get my photos and books sorted out).
I taught myself how to make lucet cord and braid so I could make the trim. I used the book Lucet Braiding, Variations on a Renaissance Cord by Elaine Fuller, (1998 Lacis Publications) to learn. I'm very pleased with this book. This instructions were easy to understand and the illustrations marvelous. I managed to reverse them (as I'm left-handed) and make decent cord, without even realizing Fuller had included a section in the back for lefties! Once I read that section, I was good to go. I really like making lucet cord; expect to see it on many forthcoming projects.
I did buttonhole edging along the top of the bag, and used that to fasten the lining (a yellow silk dupioni) to the bag itself. Buttonhole bars form the loops which hold the lucet cord which tightens to fasten up the bag. For fun I made the tassels, as it seems many of these bags were tasseled. I'm really pleased with the overall result.
- Construction:
- Embroidery with pearl cotton on hardinger.
- Folded the embroidery to make the bag. It's got seams down the sides.
- Attached blue cotton velvet (home-dyed) to the embroideried section.
- Made the lucet braid for the sides, in red pearl cotton.
- Sewed the lucet braid over the seams.
- Made the tassels and sewed the red tassels to the embroidery.
- Did buttonhole bars to create the loops for the yellow lucet braid.
- Created the liner bag, of yellow silk dupioni.
- Sewed the strap to the bag (this goes over Renart's belt) and then inserted the liner bag and buttonholed along the edge to attach it.
- Made the yellow lucet braid, from yellow pearl cotton.
- Threaded the yellow lucet braid through the buttonhole bars, then made and attached the yellow tassels.
All the materials were what I had to hand. I deliberately used cotton, and a well washed silk, so that the bag can be washed if needed. I used hardinger because I wanted a sturdy even weave fabric for the embroidery base, and didn't have a linen which fit that description, at the time. I would use linen if I did this again, although the hardinger was very easy to work.
Pictures: A 14th C German Bag
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The 14th C German Bag, Side 1
The 14th C German Bag, Side 2
A Close Up of the Top
The Bottom of the Bag, A Close Up
Next time, I'll pay attention to the direction of the eagles better. I got it to match up perfectly at the sides, but didn't envision properly what the bag would be like when I folded it. Live and learn.
- Bibliography
- Mitchell, Timothy J., 1996
'A Stitch Out of Time: 14th and 15th C German Counted Thread Embroidery' The Complete Anachronist vol 86 - Fuller, Elaine, 1998
Lucet Braiding: Variations on a Renaissance Cord Lacis Publications, Berkeley
